Johin’na is the new modern Japanese restaurant located downtown near the corner of 20th and 2nd Ave North in an area that’s become the restaurant corner in Birmingham, housing Bayonet, Helen, Paramount, Salud, Zaza, and the outdoor Wine Garden by Golden Age. And a block away from Cafe Dupont and Bistro Two Eighteen.
Johin’na predominantly offers modern and Southern takes on a traditional Japanese menu. Executive Chef Ashley Jackson and her sister Amber Diamond (Jr. Sous Chef) are Alabama natives inspired by global flavors from London, Los Angeles, and Bali. The menu, best enjoyed shared, ranges mainly from $20s and $30s. Meaning ‘elegant’ in Japanese, Johin’na goes all in on decor. It has two sections. A front section with windows on 2nd Ave and a sushi bar, and a back section with a round bar and tables on the side walls.
The Food & Drink
The menu items and food presentation attempt to reflect the high-end decor. Style is paramount here. Our first starter was the Oyster Kimchi Collard with Smoked Turkey and Gouda ($22). While not sounding particularly appetizing, it was ordered out of simple curiosity. We applaud the bold effort, but it was all too much at once, and nothing stood out. The oysters, which should have been the star, were negligible in the flavor profile.
Next was the Yellowtail Jalapeno Sashimi ($22), which was presented in a cloche to add a hint of smoke, but seemed to serve more the presentation than the product. Its jalapeños had their seeds removed, so there was no heat and little flavor added. It was a generous cut of tuna, but the dish was dependent on the ponzu sauce for flavor.
Next, we shared the Gochujang Chicken ($18), skewered chicken on a stick, marinated with the Korean spice gochujang, ginger, and lemon. It seemed to have marinated for too long, as it was very mealy, hardly holding onto the skewer. For sushi, we went with the Kyoto Heat Roll ($25). It was yellowtail, cucumber, salmon, eel sauce, and sriracha. It was good, but nothing to remember. We started with the House Sake ($11) a glass which was also good, but decided not to order another and called it a night.
The Atmosphere
Certainly a striking space, there’s no shortage of neon and curated details that make an impactful first impression. Not visible by the front window, is the back room with an illuminated cherry blossom tree stationed in the middle of the bar. As their website says, the space sets a tone for date night. And it’s hard not to be impressed. This build-out was not done on the cheap.
The Parking
Valet is offered. Free parking can sometimes be found on the street nearby. You can also park in a paid lot a block away, but make sure you pay in their app. You will get towed if not.
The Bottom Line
We’re curious to see how Birmingham can support yet another high-end, high-priced restaurant. The category seems crowded, and Johin’na has joined the race. For better or worse, it’s a place where simplicity is not of interest. While certainly it’s visually stimulating, it’s too much style and not enough substance.
